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Carmenère: the grape Chile found in hiding

Carmenère is a red grape that makes dark-colored wine with ripe fruit and a green touch reminiscent of bell pepper. It was born in Bordeaux, in France, but today it's the signature of Chile, where it spent decades planted under the name Merlot.

134 of the house's labels have Carmenère98 made from Carmenère alonefrom Brazil and Chile

Where it comes from

Carmenère is from Bordeaux. VIVC, the international grape catalog, records a French origin and old names like Grande Vidure and Carbonet, the latter tied to the Médoc. As for its parents, a 2009 DNA study points to Cabernet Franc as a likely parent; VIVC still lists more than one proposal, so the family tree remains an open question.

In the 19th century, phylloxera, an insect that attacks the vine's roots, devastated the French vineyards. In the replanting, Carmenère was left out and practically disappeared from Bordeaux: Boursiquot himself only knew it from the Vassal collection. In Chile, which escaped the plague, it survived, only mistaken for Merlot: it was planted, vinified and sold under the other grape's name.

How the mix-up was discovered

The one who untangled it was the French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot (an ampelographer is someone who recognizes grapes by the leaf, the bunch and the flower). He says that in November 1994, visiting Viña Carmen, he looked at a plot presented as Merlot and found it odd: the young leaves were too orange and the flower's stamens were slightly twisted. It was Carmenère, which he was seeing in a vineyard for the first time.

You'll find other years out there, like 1993. Take the word of the man who was there: November 1994. Years later, a DNA study signed by Boursiquot himself and colleagues confirmed that Carmenère and Merlot are different grapes.

What it's like in the glass

Dark color, ripe fruit (plum, blackberry, dark fruit jam) and the trademark: a green smell, of bell pepper or green brush. That comes from pyrazines, the substances that give green bell pepper its smell. A Chilean study measured much higher levels in Carmenère than in most Cabernet Sauvignons.

The dose of green changes with the year's weather and with the clone planted, so there's Carmenère that's almost all fruit and Carmenère that's quite herbaceous. Like the green? Great. Prefer more fruit? Switch producers or vintages until you find yours.

A vine leaf, a bunch of red grapes and a glass of Carmenère wine.
fig. 1From the bunch to the glass: dark color and, on the nose, a bell pepper green.

What it pairs with

Carmenère's green gets along with food that also has bell pepper, cumin and herbs: pot roast with bell pepper, picadinho (Brazilian beef stew), kafta, grilled linguiça sausage with vinagrete (tomato and onion salsa), roast chicken with herbs, escondidinho de carne-seca (dried beef and cassava pie). Mexican food works too. And a fruitier Carmenère handles a calabresa sausage pizza just fine. All suggestions: the best match is the one you liked.

Where it shines today

Chile, by far. In the 2024 official register of the SAG, Chile's agricultural service, there were 9,517 hectares, making it the country's fourth most planted wine grape, behind Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and País. Wines of Chile highlights the Colchagua and Cachapoal valleys, and the Maipo Valley also has renowned Carmenère.

In the house's other countries, it's a rarity. In Argentina, INV counted 51 hectares in 2024. In Brazil, an Embrapa survey in Campanha Gaúcha found less than half a hectare in 2015. In Portugal, it's not on IVV's list of most planted varieties. Fun fact: China also has Carmenère; the OIV counted 8,000 hectares there in 2015, against 11,000 in Chile.

Its other names

First, the spelling: Carmenère, with one accent, and Carménère, with two, both appear in official sources. Chile's SAG writes Carmenère; Wines of Chile, which promotes Chilean wine abroad, prefers Carménère; VIVC, which doesn't use accents, records CARMENERE. Write it whichever way you like.

Among VIVC's synonyms are Grande Vidure (the SAG still registers the grape as “Carmenère – Grande Vidure”), Carbonet, Cabernelle and Cabernet Gernischt. And in Chile, for decades, its name was simply Merlot.

To start with: Carmenère by price range

The price range the house saw at big stores in Brazil, in the month shown. The price changes; the range tends to stay.

Throwing a party? How many bottles to buy →

Top rated with Carmenère

Average rating from the people who drank it (X-Wines), from 1 to 5. Tap to see the wine's page.

See all 134 labels with Carmenère in the search →

Carmenère is the grape that came back from vanishing with another name on its badge. Open one, look for the bell pepper in the glass and decide: are you team green or team fruit?

Sources for this page

  • VIVC — Carmenere, passport no. 2109 — www.vivc.de
  • Decanter China — interview with Jean-Michel Boursiquot (Julien Boulard MW, 2016) — www.decanterchina.com
  • SAG (Chile) — Catastro Vitícola 2024, executive report — www.sag.gob.cl
  • Belancic and Agosin (2007) — Methoxypyrazines in Grapes and Wines of Vitis vinifera cv. Carmenere, AJEV — www.ajevonline.org
  • UC Davis — summary of Boursiquot et al. 2009, Parentage of Merlot and related winegrape cultivars — wineserver.ucdavis.edu
  • OIV — Distribution of the world's grapevine varieties (Focus 2017) — www.oiv.int
  • Wines of Chile — Wine Regions Map — www.winesofchile.org
  • INV — Superficie con viñedos 2024 (datos.magyp.gob.ar) — datos.magyp.gob.ar
  • Embrapa — Campanha Gaúcha: indicação geográfica de vinhos (Table 8.3, 2015) — www.infoteca.cnptia.embrapa.br
  • IVV — Castas mais utilizadas no Continente, 2025 — www.ivv.gov.pt
  • Labels, ratings, grapes and regions on the house list: X-Wines, an open scientific dataset (de Azambuja, R. X. et al., 2023), checked by the house — github.com

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