Trips · Itinerary Nº 5
Uruguay: Tannat and the Atlantic
The quiet neighbor makes one of the most underrated reds on the continent, and the itinerary puts bodega, parrilla and beach in the same day. Hard to beat.
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The grape that became a flag
Tannat came from France in the 19th century and found a permanent second home in Uruguay: a dark red, firm tannins and an obvious calling for the parrilla. It’s Uruguay’s answer to Argentine Malbec: less famous, often cheaper, and finer every year. And as a bonus, the Albariño from the east coast has been collecting praise.
Two hubs, one itinerary
- Canelones (30–40 min from Montevideo): the historic heart: family bodegas, many of Italian and Basque origin, with a home-cooked lunch among the tanks.
- Maldonado / Garzón (1 h from Punta del Este, half an hour from José Ignacio): the cutting edge. The award-winning Bodega Garzón, named among the best wineries in the world, welcomes visitors Wednesday to Sunday, booked the day before.
When to go
- February–March: harvest and summer: bodega in the morning, beach in the afternoon.
- All year: Montevideo and Canelones work in any season; winter calls for fireside Tannat, which is almost the national sport.
Secrets from the neighbors
- Driving is best: distances are short and the roads are calm; Uruguay is the easiest destination on the continent to drive in.
- Medio y medio: in Montevideo, try the local mix of white wine and sparkling wine at the Mercado del Puerto, preferably next to an asado the size of your optimism.
- Leave room in your suitcase: age-worthy Uruguayan Tannat is still a find: in Brazil, the good labels are rare and pricey.
Wineries to visit
Stated criteria: well-known houses, open to visitors and with an official site to book directly, in alphabetical order, because a list here isn’t a ranking. None of them paid to be here; prices and hours change, so confirm when you book.