Trips · Itinerary Nº 7

Vale do São Francisco: tropical wine, literally

The most unlikely region in Brazilian wine lies in the semi-arid backlands, between Pernambuco and Bahia, where the vines never go dormant and there are always grapes ripening in some plot.

See this region on the Trips map

Why this place is unlike anywhere else

At 9° from the Equator there’s no real winter; so, with irrigation from the São Francisco River and staggered pruning, grapes are picked all year round: more than one vintage a year, something unthinkable in Europe. The pioneering work bears Embrapa’s fingerprints, and the region’s calling card is sparkling moscatel: sweet, aromatic and ice-cold, the perfect match for the climate. Among the reds, tropical Syrah is the signature.

The treasure map

The base is the Petrolina (PE) – Juazeiro (BA) axis, with wineries in Lagoa Grande, Santa Maria da Boa Vista and Casa Nova. Rio Sol (Lagoa Grande) is the anchor for visits; Miolo keeps its Terranova line at Fazenda Ouro Verde (Casa Nova). And the local route has a trump card no other region in the country offers: a boat ride on the São Francisco with vineyards along the bank.

When to go

All year round: that’s the beauty of the region: there’s always a harvest going on somewhere.
May to September: the mildest months in the semi-arid backlands (even so: strong sun).
A hat, sunscreen and water in your backpack aren’t a suggestion — they’re equipment.

Advice from the sertão

Fly to Petrolina: it’s the biggest cost of the trip; once in town, the wineries are a short drive away.
Ice-cold sparkling wine at sunset on the river is the local ritual; plan your afternoon visit to end on the riverbank.
Combine it with the river tourism: the region sells itself as an integrated route (wine + boat + caatinga, the dry scrubland): it fills a whole day.

Seriously, though: don’t expect Burgundy in the sertão; expect what only exists here: two-harvest tropical wine, with the scent of mango trees close by. It’s a different sport, and it’s great fun.

Wineries to visit

Stated criteria: well-known houses, open to visitors and with an official site to book directly, in alphabetical order, because a list here isn’t a ranking. None of them paid to be here; prices and hours change, so confirm when you book.

Miolo (Terranova, Casa Nova–BA) · Vinícola Rio Sol

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