Trips · Itinerary Nº 3
Cafayate, no fuss
A little colonial town surrounded by some of the highest vineyards on the planet, and the road there is worth the whole trip on its own.
See this region on the Trips map
The road is half the itinerary
From Salta to Cafayate it’s about 3 hours through the Quebrada de las Conchas: a gorge of red rock carved by the wind, with must-do stops (Garganta del Diablo, El Anfiteatro). Go by day, unhurried, with your phone charged: it’s the most photogenic road in South American wine.
High-altitude wine
The vineyards of the Calchaquí Valleys climb from 1,700 to more than 3,000 meters: strong sun by day, cold at night, thick-skinned grapes and concentrated flavors. The white star is Torrontés: aromatic as a garden, dry on the palate, made for lunch on the patio. Among the reds, high-altitude Malbec and Tannat, tauter than Mendoza’s.
You see the town on foot
Cafayate is small and charming: a central plaza, bodegas almost in the middle of town (a rare thing in the wine world) and an ice cream shop that makes Torrontés and Cabernet ice cream. Order both, thank us later. Among the historic houses open to visitors, El Esteco (since 1892) is the anchor, by reservation.
When to go
- February–March: harvest in the valleys, hot, dry days.
- Dry winter (Jun–Aug): absurdly clear skies, cold nights: bring a proper coat.
What I wish I’d known before
- Pair it with Salta: the capital deserves a day (empanadas salteñas are emotional heritage).
- Altitude again: 1,700 m already calls for taking the first glass slowly; if you go up to the highest vineyards, slower still.
- Rare value for money: lodging, food and tastings cost less than in Mendoza; it’s the cheapest secret in Argentine wine.
Wineries to visit
Stated criteria: well-known houses, open to visitors and with an official site to book directly, in alphabetical order, because a list here isn’t a ranking. None of them paid to be here; prices and hours change, so confirm when you book.